Tosh, Parvati Valley - Fall off the map

So, the same day we came down from Rashol, we made plans to go to Tosh. Our bodies were sore for sure, but for what I had heard about the place, I just couldn’t wait to get there. So, after taking a bus from Kasol to Barsheni which is the last stop on the bus route to Parvati Valley, we walked for around 90 minutes, crossed a bridge and then rubbed our eyes and pinched ourselves to check if we’re dreaming.

We were in a place full of greenery, encircled by snow-capped mountain peaks on almost all the sides. To add to how cold it already was, it started drizzling. (Yes, one can never trust the mountain weather) We went looking for a place and put up at this really fancy place called ‘Pink Floyd’.

It gets dark at Tosh really early, and I don’t think anyone can survive there at nights without a heater. I used a candle while sitting out, star gazing.  :/

Fun Fact: This speck of a settlement doesn’t feature on any tourist maps or bus routes. Entertainment options are few; what you do get is pure, unadulterated acres of green, snowy peaks on the horizon and streams snaking their way alongside you. The Tosh River running through the valley below hums, whooshes and roars at will, breaking the silence so common to these parts. No connectivity, low electricity, limited accessibility—if you’re in Tosh, you’ve fallen off the map!

The occupation of the people here is mainly farming and animal husbandry. Hashish is grown here in plenty; it is their main source of income. There is a beautiful temple of Jamdagni Rishi at the centre of the village that has a long verandah from where you can see the snow caped mountains. But it was shut. It is apparently only open from January to February.

Tosh is an almost isolated small village at a height of 2700 M with around 650 people, there is no body seen outside after sunset – Pin drop silence.  So, we spend the night at the warm Pink Floyd Restaurant playing cards and shared ghost stories. The owners contributed too. We finally decided to go to our respective rooms and doze off.

We left for the breathtaking Kheerganga the next day. 

Rashol, Magic Rashol

Imagine sitting on a verandah with a cup of hot chocolate in your hands and gazing at Snow-capped Mountains for hours with not a sound around. Pin drop silence, silence that cannot be found anywhere except the mountains!!! There is no better sight than that. There is nothing else you would want to do.

Rashol is an 8km climb from Kasol at a 70 degree ascent. Along the path are natural watering holes and scenic spots to catch your breath. You see magnificent mountains laden with coniferous trees and a blue sky emblazoned with blinding white clouds.

That's me drinking from the natural spring

However, the trek is far from easy for unhealthy city-bred people like us. After about three hours of panting, sweating, climbing, sitting and drinking the most delicious and the most pure water ever we finally reach Rashol. It is a beautiful village, with beautiful people and has the best view. We stayed at Dola Cafe. And I absolutely loved the place since the cafe has a brilliant location that directly faces the snow caped Himalayas. And do you know how much we paid for all of this? Rs 50.  

The 10,000 ft high selfie. haha

Dola Cafe, Rashol

My experience at Rashol was beautiful. I spend most of my time watching the seven hills at a distance with a snow-capped monolith, and asking myself what could get better than this. It is peaceful, indeed.

The amazing people I met at Rashol

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Alisha.

Things to do in Kheerganga

There are not many things you can do at Kheerganga. But if you've had enough of star gazing and tripping on the snow clad mountains, these are a list of a few things that you could do at Kheerganga.

1.     Take a dip into the Hot Sulphur Springs.

2.     Camp one night ( Only if you have a sleeping bag)

3.     Spend one night at Ice n Fire

Kheerganga

                                    This is what dreams are made of.

Ever heard of the phrase ‘The grass is greener on the other side’ ? THIS is the other side!!!

The trek to Kheerganga is not easy, it requires stamina and endurance. The roads are mucky, steep and slippery. Good footwear is a must and waterproof ones are advisable since you have to cross around 3 waterfalls to get there. It is also advisable to carry a stick for balance.

It takes around 4-5 hours to get to the top depending on one’s speed. And once you get there, trust me it’s worth it. You feel accomplished!!! There are 2 cafes on the way to Kheerganga that serve Parathas, Maggi, Coffee, Tea, Snacks and Sandwiches. So carrying food is not a necessity but carrying water is a must.

After the 4 hour hike you will find yourself on a huge ground surrounded by tall and majestic mountains all around crowned with white snow, and dense white clouds. I rubbed my eyes and pinched myself to confirm if I was not dreaming. It was totally like heaven on earth so peaceful and pure. And what feels better than dipping yourself in a hot sulphur spring after that long and tiring trek. It is indeed a reward to yourself.

We camped at Kheerganga on the first day, but on the second day we had to run for shelter at around 10 pm due to heavy rains, our tents we not waterproof. Bah ! And 10 pm at Kheerganga is like 3am in Bombay – Dark and Quiet. So I felt like a part of a Bollywood movie running to find shelter on a dark, lonely, cold and rainy night. And to my surprise, I jumped right from Bollywood to Hollywood. There was a huge hall that was full of people from different countries. Braids, piercings, dreadlocks, all tripping on what Parvati valley offers best (Hash). The restaurant is called Ice and Fire, and this is one place I will never forget. 50rs a night, that’s all I spent to sleep in a place with 3 heaters. I spend the night having long conversations and playing UNO with people I met for the first time. Hot-Boxed that I was, I eventually fell asleep in my sleeping bag.

I bet, you will never be able to sleep post 9am at Kheerganga. The atmosphere there is such. Getting up and dipping myself in the hot water spring was a routine. It was quite a culture shock at first watching naked woman having a bath together, I soon got used to it.

Our 2 day stay extended to become a 4 day stay due to the bad weather and continuous rainfall. It is really risky to hike down from Kheerganga when the weather is not favourable. And one thing I’ve learnt is that, anything is possible on the mountains. When does it ever rain in May? Whatever happed to summer! Phew. So, yes, there is no best time to visit Kheerganga the weather there has a mind of its own.

However, The 4 day stay at Kheerganga will surely be treasured forever. It is heaven to earth, indeed.

Things to do at Kheerganga  ...

Things to do at Kasol

So, like I said before .. It is really cool to do NOTHING at Kasol. But, if your restless self does not allow you to do so, here is what you can do :

1.     Food : 1.Visit the ‘ Evergreen’ Restaurant.

          2. Try the Ginger Lemon Honey Tea

           3.Do not miss on the Cinnamon Rolls from the German Bakery

2.     Activities :

·        For trekking enthusiast: Trek to Kheer ganga, Trek to Rashol, Visit Malana village, Trek to Kheer ganga, Trek to Tosh glacier

·        For the Adventure buff: Mountain Biking, Rock climbing and hiking

·        For the Nature lover: Exploring the village, a walk along the river, a visit to the Manikaran Hot springs

Kasol - Mini Isreal

After a 16 hour roller coaster bus ride from Delhi’s ISBT we land in a place full of tourists. Dreadlocks, blonde hair, faded tattoos; hair full of plates or lulus, loose warm clothes is a very common sight at Kasol. I does’nt really feel like India. The Isreali population makes up majority of these travellers; hence Kasol is also called Mini Isreal.

Kasol is one place where it’s cool to do absolutely nothing. Everybody is on their own trip; Infact the air of Kasol is so different that the flies seemed to be high too. Seriously! They used to wander around and sit on us and even after we jerked ourselves they did not move.

Kasol has beauty and nature’s wonder in abundance in vary many forms, the gurgling river Parvati can be heard throughout the village and the beautiful Himachali weather in the forest surrounding the village makes it quite a tourist attraction. Somehow this place has not gained much popularity amongst Indians. To cater to the foreign clientele a number of cafes, bakeries and the sort have opened up in the village. German Bakeries are a common sight and the Cinnamon Rolls are worth dying for. ‘Ginger Lemon Honey Tea’ had become an obsession. Wooden oven pizzas, falafels and burrekas take up a lot more space on the menu than the Indian cuisine.

The best place to eat at Kasol according to me would be Evergreen. It’s bang opposite the Jewish Church, surrounded by trees ( on the way to manikaran ). The ambience is beautiful and calm, the candle light dinner adds to the atmosphere.

Evergreen Restaurant

Kasol, is the most commercialised village compared to the other villages in Parvati Valley. There are shops on both sides of the road selling clothes, bags, accessories, chillums, bongs, and souvenirs.

Accommodation is Kasol is not an issue; there are tons of hotels that offer you rooms, and their prices range from 100 to 500 rs per day. (Yes, that cheap). I suggest spending very little on accommodation, since, 1. You are barely going to stay in that room and 2. There are honestly better things to spend on. We stayed at the Gungun hotel – Quite a basic room, but it had a marvellous view. One room was shared among 3 of us and we only paid 100rs for the room. Weehee. :D

Kasol has also gained much popularity for it serves as the base camp for many wonderful treks like Pin Parvati Pass, Kheer ganga, Sar Pass and Yanker Pass.

And what adds to its beauty is the river that flows alongside at an incredible pace. You can sit by this river for hours and lose yourself in the collage of sounds.

The Parvati River

Kasol is not just a place, it’s an experience. An experience that no one should miss. So, if you want a vacation that’s cheap, carefree and beautiful, Kasol is the place to be.

Things to do at Kasol ...

Parvati Valley

With a desperate need to escape the Mumbai heat, I planned to make a trip to The Parvati Valley at Himachal Pradesh. We took the Firozpur Express to New Delhi and boarded the bus to Bhuntar . From Bhuntar we went to Kasol. It took us around 16 hours from ISBT in New Delhi to get there.

After the long bumpy ride, steep turns dozing off for hours and getting frustrated of the journey some peace came to us as we drove in Himachal. The beautiful scenery and pleasant weather took away all our frustration and idleness of being tied down to our uncomfortable bus seat. We travelled from Bhuntar to Kasol during sunrise; I kid you not it was therapy to my eyes.

On our way from Delhi to Kasol

Parvati Valley is located in the lap of Himalayas, and is a recluse to backpackers from around the world. Mountains clad in a hundred shades of greens and browns and a plethora of activities keep calling travellers back for more than one visit. Moreover, the valley caters to a variety of travellers owing to the many treks, trails and adventure activities as well as the pilgrimages that are nested inside the valley. Situated in Himachal, the valley starts from the confluence of river Parvati with Beas and runs eastward through a steep-side from Bhuntar, 6km ahead of which lies Kullu.

The other striking feature of Parvati is the river which hurls itself down the mountains at an incredible pace. You can sit by this river for hours and lose yourself in the collage of sounds.

Parvati River

Parvati Valley has recently transformed into a hub for backpackers, who are attracted to the scenic valley, untouched hills, low budget travel and great climate. It is a base for many known treks in the area, to Sar Pass, Yanker Pass, ManTalai, Pin Parbati Pass and KheerGanga; Many hikes as well to the new age 'tourist' villages - Vashisht, Kasol, Naggar, Malana, Chalaal, Rashol, Tosh, Kalga and Pulga.

We visited Kasol – Mini Isreal, Tosh, Manikaran and hiked upto Kheerganga and Rashol. ( Click on the places to see more about them )

   

It was indeed one of my best trips in India. Parvati Valley is truly a Backpackers Paradise. A place that is nothing but journey of indulging your senses, the Parvati valley is truly divine in its beauty. A place with small population, cold mountains and warm hearts Parvati Valley is a town which will forever be etched in my mind for its beauty and simplicity.